Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Cougar Rock: Who Wants to Climb Some First Ascents?


july 2010 explorations-105
The View from the parking spot...approach involves only10-15 minutes of hiking.


Two years ago Jen and I found a cool hilltop rock at around 6000 feet on the east side of the North Cascades. It is composed of weathered old granitic rock somewhere between washington pass and joshua tree in quality  with a number of intruding dykes, cracks and wind sculpted huecos forming steep and interesting climbable features. We've been back a few times and established a handful of fun boulder problem and one okay roped routes which lacks anchors as the short hardware store wedge bolts we had with us were sketch in the weathered rock. 

Atypically for Washington, the rock is quite clean. Everything we've done so far has been ground up though the steepness of some of the lines may convince us to hang a rope down them.

late_summer_early_fall-237
View from above.


The climbable season for the rock is somewhat short due to its elevation but it also provides an escape from both the rain of the west and the heat of the lowlands making it the perfect destination 1-2 weekends a year. The 360 degree views and wildness of the spot also make it rather unique.

late_summer_early_fall-218
Jen working "Spine Tingler" a cool dyke that arcs through an overhang. Currently you finish by stepping across to the tree but I would like to eventually top it out on aliens in pockets or bolts...it should make a decent length pitch.

We have had it to ourselves for a couple of years and have not even touched a number of the quality lines. It seems the best course forward is to invite our friends out for a first ascent weekend sometime soon so that they can also share in the bounty...let us know if you are interested. 

Logistically the crag is 4.5 hours from seattle, about n hour of that on a dirt forest service road that was cleared and graded recently and should still be passable to honda accords and similar. It is well outside of the wilderness area (as demonstrated by the dirt and mountain bike trails in the area). Reports from mountain bikers in the area suggest the snow has melted but this year who knows. You can camp at the parking area though there are no amenities and it is on the way to nowhere ...bring your own water, plenty of gas, spare tire etc and be prepared to dig a pit to poo. The nearest developed camping (and swimming and climbing not developed by us) is about an hour away due to the winding dirt road. After our experience with short wedge bolts we are convinced all fixed anchors should be long stainless rawl five pieces or similar and I bought a number of these.

There are many other undeveloped crags and boulders and some larger walls in the area waiting to be scouted...four wheel drive and or mountain bikes could be useful. 


july 2010 explorations-116
The short approach. A sweet looking steep crack splits the overhanging headwall of the left spire...we haven't tried it yet as we got distracted by all the cool dykes and huecos close to the ground.

july 2010 explorations-126
The crack from below that hides the steepness of it.

july 2010 explorations-174
And another from the side...with the slaby crack below this will make a really cool hard single pitch crack route to an independent summit. 


july 2010 explorations-167
The saddle between the two spires.

july 2010 explorations-146
The one roped rout to date. 

july 2010 explorations-137
Overview of that wall, note the abundant intruding dyke features.

july 2010 explorations-127
A steep, featured, wall.

july 2010 explorations-131
"Spine Tingler" on the right end of the steep wall.

july 2010 explorations-117
The strange "paw" feature.

july 2010 explorations-162
Slaby wall awaiting first ascents.

july 2010 explorations-165
This slab could have an awesome tip toe route on some small features...click and select the larger size for full effect.

july 2010 explorations-164
Unclimbed flake to a Hueco covered roof. 

july 2010 explorations-160
Some cracks.


july 2010 explorations-184
Telephoto shot from far below showing small boulder field.

late_summer_early_fall-185
Jen on the FA of The "Sand Ladder" warm up boulder. 

late_summer_early_fall-193
Another. 

late_summer_early_fall-198
The "Huecos are for Lovers" alcove.


late_summer_early_fall-276
"Flakes are for Fun Lovers" to the right of huecos, finish left and up, right finish remains to be done.

late_summer_early_fall-259
One of the Hueco problems in the alcove... finish by stepping off to a large boulder at your back.





late_summer_early_fall-251
Flakes and cracks in the saddle.

july 2010 explorations-113
Cougar prints we found around our tent one morning...it is a wild place.

15 comments:

Unknown said...

Worked great removing stains and freshening up interior of my room. Chemdry Manassas Does not fade or remove color from fabric. Don’t know what all the fuss is about the smell, it wasn’t that strong to me.


chemdry manassas

Richard Majece said...

Online advices from USA high schools might be really useful. I used this information for writing my research

Liam said...

There are so many benefits of online assignment help service. Let's talk one by one about the benefits of Online assignment help.Programming Help

Liam said...

There are so many Finance Assignment Help website to help you.

Stefan Carl said...

If you want top-level assignment help services in Auckland then we are here for you. Our expert writers will help you to write your assignment on assignment help Auckland.

Huongkv said...

Aivivu đại lý vé máy bay, tham khảo

vé máy bay đi Mỹ Vietnam Airline

giá vé máy bay vinh sài gòn

giá vé máy bay chu lai hà nội

giá vé máy bay vào nha trang

ve may bay di Hue bao nhieu tien

taxi sân bay rẻ nhất

combo cocobay đà nẵng

Mark Spencer said...

It is good to hear that your store is now expanding to new locations. I have been a patron of Fantastic Eyes because of all the wonderful work that you guys do. I hope that this expansion move assignment writing site of yours will turn out to be successful. I will definitely go and see this new store of yours

Mark Spencer said...

The very next time I read a blog, I hope that it won’t fail me as much as this particular one. I mean, Yes, it was my choice to read through, however, I genuinely believed you would have something helpful to say. assignment writing help All I hear is a bunch of complaining about something that you could fix if you weren’t too busy searching for attention.

Mark Spencer said...

Stunning site! Do you have any accommodating clues for trying essayists? I’m wanting to begin my own site soon yet I’m somewhat lost on everything. Would you prompt beginning with a free stage help with essay writing like or go for a paid alternative? There are such a large number of alternatives out there that I’m totally overpowered .. Any thoughts? Welcome it!

Nick said...

I love to travel when I show the amazing images on your site. I remember my memories so I have bookmarked your site and there are some more things like this as Degoo vs pCloud and Best Video Editing Software. these are also amazing content.

siavash said...

عطر ورساچه کریستال نویر
یکی از ادکلن های جذاب زمستانی و گرم است که در حجم 90 میل نسخه اورجینال آن به فروش می رسد و قیمت ادکلن ورساچه کریستال نویر زنانه امروز حدود 2 میلیون تومان می باشد.
این عطر رایحه ای تلخ دارد و بوی آن برگرفته از گل های شرقی است.

kevinjones said...

Embarking on the thrill of first ascents at Cougar Rock! Ready for an adrenaline-fueled climb? Cheers to conquering new heights and the adventurous spirit of those who dare!
Middlesex County Driving Without a License Attorney
Middlesex County Driving Without a License Lawyer

elig said...


Thanks for sharing this post, You can also buy the best car brake pads inخرید لنت ترمز

آموزش طراحی سایت said...


thank you for this wonderful information
this is amazing content
آموزش طراحی سایت از صفر تا صد در آکادمی دیجی نیکان




آموزش طراحی سایت

دانلود آهنگ فضا 2 موزیک said...

آهنگ جدید