Sunday, December 2, 2012

Simple, Adjustable, Flarable Crack Machines

Lifting a weight with a ring lock in a handscrew clamp
Living in rural Montana near vast quantities of granite is amazing for climbing...part of the year. Some of the locals are tough enough to enjoy wading through snow to climb dripping rock in fridged temps. We recent transplants from more temperate climates will need to get creative with our training if we hope to keep up come spring. 

These rocks are dripping wet and covered in snow and ice at the moment
I've always sucked at ring locks and off fingers and I would like to train those and a few other specific types of jams this winter. I think I've found an ideal tool, 10" Wood Handscrew Clamps.

Fist Jam
Handscrew clamps are a nifty bit of mechanism that my Dad uses in his shop for holding pieces of wood together while glue sets. Each clamp consists of two long blocks of hardwood mounted on threaded rods with handles so that you can adjust the width and flare of the clamp.

Without any modification they are perfect for all sorts of finger, ring and fist jams as seen in the photos above. Adjusting the flare allows you to make the the jam easier or harder.

I've been lashing the clamp to a free weight and dialing the flare so I can hold a jam for under ten seconds and then doing sets (say three sets of ten) like a weightlifter (I use a hangboard the same way). You could also hang them and use them like rock rings though I haven't tried this yet.

The corners are a bit sharp (like some real cracks) and I might take some coarse sandpaper to them at some point to smooth out the sharp bits and roughen up the faces.

Maximum Width of this clamp is about six inches. 
It is flarable... two directions.
You can quickly adjust the width by spinning the clamp.
They don't really work for hand jams which require more surface area than the jaws offer. To solve this I will probably attach boards inside one of my two clamps. I also have some 12-Inch Handscrew Kits (unfortunately not available through amazon at the moment) and some 8 foot 2x12's that I plan to turn into a ceiling height crack machine.

Future plans include adapting for hand and thin-hand jams and an 8 foot crack machine

I was originally considering mounting the clamp kits at odd angles to allow the crack to be bomb-bay flared but I think this is impractical which means it might be quicker to just order 12-inch clamps. There are a couple of things I need to figure out to make this work well:
  • How to mount the crack so it can be adjusted and flared but can't shift while in use. 
  • Some kind of crank and chain system to allow quick adjustments. Turning the shafts by hand is too slow when you can't spin the clamp.
  • An easy way to mount the crack so it can be tilted into an overhang or roof crack.
I'll post updates as I get all this figured out. 


«Oldest   ‹Older   1401 – 1436 of 1436
jimmy said...

France Airline offers a great web based booking administration, as well as certain choices to investigate a flight. How Can I cancelled flights Air-France Airlines The France Airline Flightforu site is one in every one of them. Addressing Flightforu makes the visit extra energising. The Flightforu site likewise incorporates transporter contact data and ticket buy usefulness.

How do I get the Best price on Air-France airlines

property investment company said...

Traditional caravans and lodges will depreciate in value from the moment they are purchased. A holiday lodge is an excellent investment. It involves purchasing the lodge with a smaller deposit and using a form of interest-free

srivari said...

visual fault locator
low price locator

mobile crm software said...

OTDR Machine
OTDR Price

Kary Christ said...

fujikura fiber cutter
low cost fujikura cutter

Visitors Insurance said...

Assuming that you are searching for individual health care coverage or quality medical services in the nation they're briefly living in; Global Medical Insurance coverage is quite possibly of the most ideal choice. Most worldwide travel insurance arrangements offer numerous inclusion choices with very adaptable advantages and contract maximums going from $250,000 to limitless worth.

To know more about this, visit:
Contact US:
Location: 425 Huehl Road,Suite 22-A,Northbrook,IL 60062
Phone : 1-847-897-5120 | Fax : 1.847.897.5130 | Toll Free : 1-800-344-9540
WhatsApp : 1-847-897-5120 | Email:

property investment company said...

The Card House is our latest new build opportunity in the up and-coming city of Bradford. it has a central position for companies needing to relocate or expand. The building also boasts access to public transport links and a short drive from the city centre.

property investment company said...

Oakham Holiday Lodge Investment is the perfect proposition for those looking to purchase a holiday lodge in Oakham, Leicestershire with an attractive income and capital which will encourage you to rent out the property. Oakham Holiday Lodge Investment are specialist investment company operating within the holiday lodge market and offer investors an opportunity to join and gain from our portfolio of holiday lodges in this area.

Unknown said...

How often do you feed yourselves? Twice or thrice a day, right, but how often do you feed your face? Your face needs nourishment and care like any other part of your body. Get a Skin Spa and give your face the care and nourishment it deserves. Curious about what is a skin spa and what it includes? We are going to answer these questions in this post, so stick till the end and garner all the necessary details.

Camlie Brown said...

Follow the instructions from our website to successfully download and install Brother Printer Driver to enhance the current features of the printer.

Jacab Bob said...

The Abbeon Hygrometer of Models HTAB-169 and Stomach muscle 167 are affirmed to be precise inside ±3% RH. The dial demonstrates the total scope of 0 to 100 percent relative dampness. Each instrument has been tried at three unique places of the dial at temperatures going from 32° to 230°F. The alignment and accreditation are finished under ISO-9001 control.
Contact Us:
Commerce Park Professional Center 5309 Technology Dr. Tampa, FL 33647
P: 813.97q1.5001

property investment company said...

Ranksborough Hall offers a fantastic location for investors, with the added benefit of prime river views and impressive surroundings. The gardens are perfect for enjoying a picnic or just relaxing in the open air alongside stunning Longhouse apartments, which add to its charm.

aquapro said...

Germs do not belong in your stomach Water Purifier R.O. System

Alex said...

the Free hill are really nice to read . Alex Art

Alex said...

the free of hill is a good topic for learners

property investment company said...

Holmeshaw are the leading property investment company UK. We have been involved in delivering short term buy to let student property investment opportunities since 2005. Our portfolio of managed student accommodation is currently investing in over 100 primary, secondary and university campuses across the country.

Joseph said...

Travel Signal Need is a High level Traffic and Transport signal Need The board Frameworks or component to give exceptional treatment and lessen stay time to travel vehicles like transport, fast travel vehicle, railroad vehicle, water vehicle, civil vehicles, policing fire security vehicle at signalized convergences. To know more about bus signal priority, visit Emtrac Systems and avail our services.

Get in Touch:
location: Manufactured By STC, Inc. 1201 W. Randolph St, McLeansboro, IL 62859
phone: Richard D’Alessandro: (214) 607–0100
Fax: (214) 607–0105

Mr. Kimball said...

Browning Enterprise specializes in roll bending services in Alabama and assembles angle irons, beams, I-beams, rectangular, square, and circular bars. The company has a variety of roll bending machines that can bend and shape bars and tubes of various cross-sections.

Contacts US:
100 7th Avenue SW Attalla, AL 35954
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 807 Attalla, AL 35954
Fax: 256–538–0517
Visit our website:

CSS Founder said...

CSS Founder is a well-developed Website Design Company Chicago where you can a full solution for website design & development.

leophilipe said...

Thanks for providing such an informative blog.....

Web Design Company in Montreal

Web Design Agency in Montreal

leophilipe said...

Worthy blog.....

Digital Marketing Company in Montreal

leophilipe said...

Thanks for providing an useful blog...

Digital Marketing Company in Chennai

Digital Marketing Services Chennai

property investment company said...

We provide a complete package of property investment services, offering you peace of mind. We take a hands-on approach on each and every investment, ensuring we are there right through the process to ensure your properties achieve the best returns possible.

Fulcrum Resources Environmental said...

"Site Characterization Reports provide clients a set of site-specific activities designed to identify and understand contaminants and contaminant sources at a site. Fulcrum provides clients Site Characterization Reports to help ensure adequate and appropriate information is available to support selection and implementation of remedial actions. Site Characterization Reports are designed at the level of detail which is commensurate with the complexity of the site and/or release in question. The process involves:

Data and information gathering
Development of a Site Conceptual Model
Preparation of a Site Characterization Work Plan
Fulcrum works with clients, lenders, and property buyers to ensure our Site Characterization Reports the information necessary to understand the property in question."

property investment company said...

Are you looking for the best holiday lodge capital allowances company in united kingdom? If so, contact us at Holme Shaw. We offer a wide range of services to help you with your property development, home renovations and property management needs.

leophilipe said...

Thanks for providing such an informative blog...

Web design company in Chennai

Web design Services in chennai

Shravya Kumari said...

Thanks for sharing such a worthy information
3D Printing Services in chennai
3D printers in Chennai

property investment company said...

You are searching for Holiday Lodge Capital Allowances? We can help you. Our dedicated investment team has over three decades of combined experience, so you can trust us to identify opportunities and maximize returns. The knowledge of our team is backed up by the industry expertise of our advisors, who can advise on the best fund choices, including bond funds and unit trusts.

Sakshi Singh said...

Thanks for sharing great articles, I appreciate your efforts. Visit Website Design Company In Delhi

Sakshi Singh said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
property investment company said...

Build your portfolio with the best holiday lodge capital allowances uk. Our dedicated investment team has over three decades of combined experience, so you can trust us to identify opportunities and maximize returns. The knowledge of our team is backed up by the industry expertise of our advisors, who can advise on the best fund choices, including bond funds and unit trusts

scopex hospital said...

Best Hospital Management Software

property investment company said...

The best holiday lodge capital allowances in the United Kingdom. Our investment team has over three decades of combined experience, so you can trust us to identify opportunities and maximize returns. The knowledge of our team is backed up by the industry expertise of our advisors, who can advise on the best fund choices - including bond funds and unit trusts.

Jack said...

When comparing online interior design services, keep in mind that the level of assistance needed and your budget will play a significant role in narrowing down the field of possibilities. top online design services

mbuotidem said...

The information is really matches with the articles , it is standard thank you for the information Check delsu jupeb admission form this year

John Well said...

Case Study Assignment Help
Assignment Help
MBA Writing Service

«Oldest ‹Older   1401 – 1436 of 1436   Newer› Newest»